As I stepped off the plane at Osaka airport on that cold Sunday afternoon in late October, I could already feel the excitement bubbling up inside me. Japan had long been on my travel bucket list, and I was finally here, ready to embark on a week-long adventure that would take me through the heart of this fascinating country.
Day 1: Arrival and First Impressions
My journey began with a smooth train ride from Osaka to Kyoto, where I was greeted by my gracious host family at Yamashina Station. As I waited outside the station, I had my first taste of Japanese hospitality when two locals approached me, striking up a conversation in English. Their warmth and friendliness instantly confirmed that I had made the right decision to visit Japan.
After settling in at my host family’s home and enjoying a quick meal, I was off to my first pre-booked tour – the Kyoto Night Foodie Tour. As we wandered through the atmospheric backstreets of Gion and Pontocho, I was struck by Kyoto’s unique blend of history and modern nightlife. The tour was a feast for the senses, introducing me to local delicacies and giving me a glimpse into the city’s vibrant food culture.
Before heading back to my temporary home, I couldn’t resist exploring a bit more. I stumbled upon the beautiful Yasaka Shrine, also known as Gion Shrine, which sits at the intersection of the Gion and Higashiyama districts. Illuminated against the night sky, it was a magical first encounter with Kyoto’s rich cultural heritage.
That evening the host family shared a hand-drawn map of the area, pointing out some hidden gems that weren’t in my guidebook – a thoughtful gesture that exemplified their dedication to ensuring I had the best possible experience in Kyoto.
Day 2: Diving Deep into Kyoto’s History
Monday began bright and early, and I was eager to dive into the heart of Kyoto. I started with a leisurely stroll through the city centre, soaking in the atmosphere and getting a feel for the urban landscape. But the real adventure began with a 5-hour guided walking tour aptly named “Walk in Kyoto, Talk in English”.
This tour was a treasure trove of experiences, each more fascinating than the last. At Hanayama Inari Shrine in the Yamashina Ward, I was fortunate enough to witness a Shinto ceremony in progress, with worshippers facing a gilded altar. It was a moment of profound cultural immersion that left me in awe.
Our journey continued to a traditional fan shop, Ogiya Hangesho, where I marvelled at the intricate craftsmanship of Kyo-sensu, the famous Kyoto folding fans. We explored multiple Tenmangu Shrines, each with its own unique character, and wandered down residential streets in Higashiyama, where traditional Japanese houses stood as a testament to the city’s preserved history.
The tour also took us to the serene Kamo River and the stunning Kodaiji Temple in the Higashiyama District. But the crown jewel of the day was undoubtedly Kiyomizu-dera, the “Pure Water Temple.” Perched on the eastern hills of Kyoto, this UNESCO World Heritage site offered breathtaking views of the city and a sense of tranquillity that was profound.
As the day drew to a close, I returned to my host family’s home. Over a delicious home-cooked Japanese meal, we sat around the dinner table, sharing stories and experiences. I talked about life in London, showing them pictures and answering their curious questions. Their warm hospitality and genuine interest in my culture made me feel truly welcome
Day 3: Nishiki Market and Nocturnal Nijo Castle
Tuesday was all about immersing myself in the daily life of Kyoto. I spent a significant portion of the day exploring the vibrant Nishiki Market, often referred to as “Kyoto’s Kitchen.” The market was a sensory overload in the best possible way – a kaleidoscope of colours, aromas, and flavours that epitomised Japanese culinary culture.
One of my favourite discoveries at the market was a stall specialising in beautifully carved chopsticks. The intricate designs and craftsmanship were a perfect example of the attention to detail that permeates Japanese culture. I couldn’t resist purchasing a pair as a memento of my trip.
As I wandered through the market, I found myself drawn into conversation with locals and fellow travellers alike. I shared a drink with a Japanese couple and some other visitors, exchanging travel stories and recommendations. These spontaneous interactions often prove to be the most memorable parts of any journey.
After leaving the market, I let my feet guide me through central Kyoto, capturing snapshots of everyday life with my camera. I was particularly fascinated by a group of men working with a traditional Japanese weaving loom, a craft that has been passed down through generations.
As night fell, I made my way to Nijo Castle. The castle, spectacularly illuminated against the night sky, was a sight to behold. The play of light and shadow on the ancient walls created an almost mystical atmosphere, transporting me back to the days of shoguns and samurai.
After my evening exploration of Nijo Castle, I returned to my host family. We gathered for another traditional Japanese dinner, during which they shared fascinating stories about growing up and living in Kyoto. Their insights into local customs and daily life in Japan were invaluable, providing me with a deeper understanding of the culture I was experiencing
Day 4: Himeji Castle – A Dream Realised
Wednesday marked the highlight of my trip – a visit to the iconic Himeji Castle. I boarded the JR Special Rapid Train at Kyoto station, my heart pounding with anticipation. This was the main reason for my journey to Japan, and I could hardly contain my excitement.
As I approached Himeji Castle, I was struck by its imposing beauty. Known as the “White Heron Castle” due to its elegant, white exterior, it’s widely considered Japan’s most spectacular castle. I spent hours exploring the castle grounds, each turn revealing new wonders.
Inside the castle, I marvelled at the ingenious defensive systems, from the maze-like approach designed to confuse invaders to the hidden alcoves for defending warriors. The view from the top floor was breathtaking, offering a panoramic vista of Himeji city and the surrounding mountains.
What struck me most about Himeji Castle was how it has remained largely intact since its completion in 1609, having never been destroyed by war, earthquake, or fire. Standing there, I felt a overwhelming connection to Japan’s rich history.
After my visit, I took a VEGA guided tour, which I highly recommend. The English-speaking guide provided fascinating insights into the castle’s history and architecture that I would have missed on my own. They pointed out details like the fortified walls with loopholes used for castle defence and the castle’s rare and gorgeously decorated windows.
Exhausted but exhilarated from my day at Himeji, I returned to Kyoto and treated myself to a meal at McDonald’s. While it might seem odd to visit an American fast-food chain in Japan, I was curious to see how it differed from home. The teriyaki burger and green tea McFlurry were delightful surprises!
Returning to Kyoto after my exhilarating day at Himeji Castle, I was greeted by the comforting atmosphere of my host family’s home. Over dinner, I excitedly recounted my adventures at the castle. We then settled in to watch some Japanese television together. Even though I couldn’t understand the language, it was a unique way to immerse myself in the culture and daily life of a Japanese household
Day 5: Fushimi Inari Taisha – A Thousand Torii Gates
Thursday was dedicated to exploring one of Kyoto’s most famous landmarks – the Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine. Known for its thousands of vermilion torii gates, this Shinto shrine is dedicated to Inari, the god of rice and sake.
As I arrived early in the morning, I witnessed Japanese businessmen performing traditional prayers and paying respects at the shrine. It was a powerful reminder of how deeply intertwined spirituality is with daily life in Japan.
The highlight of Fushimi Inari is undoubtedly the seemingly endless path of torii gates that wind up Mount Inari. As I began my ascent, I was enveloped in a tunnel of vibrant orange, each gate donated by a business or individual. The trek was challenging but incredibly rewarding, offering periodic views of Kyoto along the way.
One of the most fascinating sights was watching a man meticulously inscribing donation details on new torii gates. It was a testament to the ongoing nature of this sacred place, continuously growing and changing with each new offering.
Near the main hall, I caught a glimpse of a Shinto priest in traditional garments performing rituals at the Haiden offering hall. While I was gently reprimanded by security for attempting to take a photo (a reminder to always be respectful of local customs), watching the ceremony was truly magical.
As I made my way back down the mountain, feeling a sense of accomplishment and spiritual renewal, I spotted a Japanese postman making his rounds. It was a charming juxtaposition of the everyday and the sacred that seemed to encapsulate so much of what I had experienced in Japan.
In the evening, I returned to my host family, eager to share my experiences at Fushimi Inari Taisha. As we enjoyed our meal together, they offered additional insights about the shrine’s significance in Japanese culture.
Day 6: Arashiyama and the Sagano Romantic Train
For my final full day in Japan, I decided to venture just outside Kyoto to the scenic area of Arashiyama. November is a perfect time to visit this picturesque district, as the autumn colours paint the surrounding mountains in vibrant hues of red, orange, and gold.
I started my day with a visit to the famous Bamboo Grove. Walking through the towering green stalks, listening to them gently sway in the breeze, was like stepping into another world. The interplay of light and shadow created by the dense bamboo was mesmerising.
Next, I explored the grounds of Tenryu-ji Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The temple’s gardens, designed in the 14th century, are considered a masterpiece of Japanese landscape architecture. The central pond, with its carefully placed rocks and meticulously pruned trees, offered a perfect reflection of the colourful foliage.
The highlight of my day in Arashiyama was undoubtedly the ride on the Sagano Romantic Train. This old-fashioned train winds its way through the mountains, offering spectacular views of the Hozugawa River and the surrounding forest. As we chugged along, the autumn colours seemed to set the hillsides ablaze, creating a truly unforgettable scene.
I ended my day with a quiet walk across the iconic Togetsukyo Bridge, watching as the setting sun painted the sky in shades of pink and orange. It was a fitting end to my Japanese adventure, a moment of tranquillity and beauty that encapsulated so much of what I had come to love about this incredible country.
Reflections on a Week in Japan
As I packed my bags on Saturday morning, preparing for my departure, I couldn’t help but reflect on the whirlwind week I had experienced. From the bustling streets of Kyoto to the serene bamboo groves of Arashiyama, from the imposing majesty of Himeji Castle to the spiritual journey through the torii gates of Fushimi Inari, each day had brought new wonders and insights.
Japan had exceeded all my expectations. The seamless blend of ancient traditions and cutting-edge modernity, the unfailing politeness and helpfulness of the people, the attention to detail in everything from food presentation to garden design – all these elements combined to create a travel experience unlike any other.
I left with a camera full of photos, a notebook full of memories, and a heart full of appreciation for this fascinating country. As the plane took off, carrying me back home, I knew one thing for certain – this first taste of Japan had only whetted my appetite for more. Until next time, Japan. Sayonara!